The American Hairless Terrier
BREEDING TIPS
III
CARING FOR AND SELLING YOUR
PUPPIES
If you have been blessed with a mother dog that takes good care of her pups, she has done most of the work to this point, but not everyone is that lucky. Even with the best mother dog you should handle and check each pup every day to make sure they are gaining the proper weight and are free from health problems. There are a num- ber of things that come up and it is best to catch a problem early on. Besides, the puppies do need to get accustomed to human handling from a very early age. Check to make sure all pups are getting enough to eat, nails are not too long, they are being kept clean and dry and are free from scratches, sores and parasites.
Don't be in a hurry to wean your puppies. Three weeks is early enough to begin the process and there is no time limit on getting it done. Weaning has been made easier over the years and there are many fine puppy foods out there to help you and the puppies through this step. Use a quality puppy food and either grind it up in your blender and add water (I have gone through a number of blenders with this) or soak the food until it becomes mushy. You can either use warm water or bitch's replacement milk, whichever you feel more comfortable using. Make sure the mush is thin (soupy) enough for the babies to handle their first time and you can gradually thicken it as they become used to their new way of eating. Have a video camera ready the first time as they will surely be comical. They will sit in it, lay in it, dive into it, and play in it...making an enormous mess...but who cares, they are so funny to watch. After they are done with their food fight, let momma in to clean 'em up. My bitches have always loved this part....a real treat. Of course if you have one that has had enough of her pups by this time, you will have to do the job yourself. Don't forget plenty of fresh water for the babies, too!
When the pups have reached six weeks they are usually pretty settled into eating puppy food and not depending on momma for their meals. Make sure they get plenty of quality food and fresh water. Some breeders believe in "self-feeding" or "free-feeding" and leave food down at all times for the puppies, but I don't. I feed mine several times per day starting at four times, dropping to 3 times and by 3 months old they are at 2 feedings per day. By the way, all of my adults are fed 2 times per day, too. I feel that by feeding at certain times and given certain amounts, I have fewer overweight dogs and everyone is getting the proper amount. Also they are all fed separately to avoid the fighting over every morsel. I find that individual meals make it easier when it comes time for housebreaking. If you know when your pup has eaten, you have a better idea of when he needs to relieve himself. Each breeder does what works best for them....even though "free-feeding" may work for you, it is best to give the new owner both options.
At three weeks old you need to have your puppies wormed for round worm. If you plan to do this yourself, make sure you get an exact weight on each puppy so as not to overdose them on the wormer. Each breeder and vet seems to have a different schedule for worming so it is best to check with one or the other. I worm mine at three weeks and then again at 6 six weeks and haven't had a problem yet. Do keep records of your wormings and whether you have noticed passings of worms. The new owners should have complete health records.
Six weeks is when the puppies should begin their series of shots. Again, breeders and vets may differ in their schedule for this, so check with whoever you feel more comfortable with. I give DA2PP/CV.......distemper, adenovirus type2, parvo virus, para influenza and corona virus at: 6 weeks, 9 weeks, 12 weeks, 15 weeks, and 18 weeks. I also give Intra Trac II at eight weeks for kennel cough prevention and of course their rabies shot is due at 16 weeks. A preventative that many breeders tend to forget is Heartgard, so talk to your vet about this as he/she knows what is best for the area you reside. Though you may not be keeping the puppy long enough to be giving it all of its shots or even start on the heartworm preventative...as a breeder you should have the information to pass on to the new puppy owner. Each pup should go to its new home with a complete health care record booklet properly marked with all the wormings and shots you've given . Dates for future vaccinations, preventatives or wormings should be notated in this booklet as a reminder to the new owner. For the benefit of new owners I have made up a "Health Assessment Certificate" that I take to my vet for him to fill out for each puppy he examines. Then I make a copy to give to each new owner along with the health record book and contract. I also keep a certificate in my files along with my copy of the contract.
So now your puppies are ready to go to their new
owners and new homes. You watched their births and loved and played with
them all these weeks and now it is time to say "goodbye". This can
be very very difficult at first because you just can't help but fall in love
with the little critters. But....if it ever comes the day you don't feel
a pull on the old heartstrings when it is time for them to leave then don't
get into breeding.
The best time for a puppy to go to their new home is between 8 and 12 weeks of age. Mine don't leave until 9 weeks only because I like to get that second shot in them before leaving. Check the ordinances in your state as to the proper age for a pup to be taken from its mother. It is illegal for us to sell pups here under the age of eight weeks, but I'm sure it varies from state to state.
By this time you have handled the puppies and watched them move around. You should have a good idea of their temperaments and of their structure and flaws. Each puppy should be evaluated on his/her potential as a pet or as a show dog. If you are not certain of exactly what to look for check with the breeder of your bitch. If you have kept a good relationship with your breeder you should have no problem getting their advice. All pups should be vet checked for any hereditary problems as well as their standard health and vaccinations. Also their temperaments should be evaluated by using a simple puppy temperament test. And of course they should be evaluated by you with the help of another breeder if you are not sure for their pet/companion or breeding potential . If the puppy is to be sold as breeding quality, you had better be ready to give some guarantees for the higher price and be prepared to stand behind those guarantees. You still have a responsibility of some guarantees with a pet quality puppy, which leads us to one of the most important steps in selling your puppies and that is the CONTRACT!
Puppy / Dog Sales Contract
No matter how well you know the person you are selling too........get everything written in a contract.......period, end of discussion. Many a good friendship has been ruined because of misunderstandings from verbal contracts. Unfortunately, the days of a "man's word" or a handshake are long gone and the days of "lawsuits" and man suing his own brother have taken their place. Make sure that everything expected of this dog from the breeder's side to the purchaser's side is written clearly on the contract, is read and understood by both parties involved and then signed by both the breeder and buyer. Leave no room for misunderstandings and no room for mistakes that could lead you to court. Make sure that the buyer understands that this is a legal and binding contract that will hold up in court. But also make sure that you are upfront and honest about all that you put in the contract. Remember, this contact is to protect you as well as the buyer.
BREEDING AND RAISING PUPPIES
CAN BE VERY REWARDING
BUT REMEMBER
IT ALSO TAKES A LOT OF WORK AND A LOT OF PATIENCE
SO DON'T RUSH INTO SOMETHING
YOU MAY NOT BE READY FOR.
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II